R16 Oil Pump Question

Discussion about Datsun 1500, 1600, and 2000 race cars.

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DatsunBucky
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R16 Oil Pump Question

Postby DatsunBucky » Mon Jul 07, 2008 8:50 am

( I posted this over on 311s.org but then realized that not everyone reads both forums. So here's my question: )

This question is directed at those who have shimmed the relief valve in the oil pump in the R16 for competition purposes.

How thick a shim do I need to add to have the valve release at about 60 psi instead of the 45 psi that I recall it putting out? Is 1/8" too thick? I made a shim out of 1/8" aluminum and also found some washers that fit down the barrel if the aluminum one is wrong. I'm still using the original steel washer in addition to whatever else I end up with. Right now I've got the whole thing cobbled together with a punch pin holding the spring down until I can get a cotter pin and finish the job. I figured that the steel should go next to the cotter pin as the pressure is more concentrated there than at the spring end. The pump is out of the engine.

The pump gears look good, and the wear on the bottom plate is almost non-existant. The pump shaft has a only tiny bit of play. Anything else I'm missing? This will be in an engine that will be heavily "leaned on." Dry sump is out of the question, unless someone wants to buy it for me. 8)

Due to budget restraints, I'm not at liberty to go with a U20 pump, but my previous experience with the R16 showed that pump worked just fine. "Back in the day", I shimmed the old one, but I cannot remember how much, other than I used a single washer and hoped for the best.
Bucky
67.5 1600 project

Chris Coker
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Postby Chris Coker » Mon Jul 07, 2008 9:05 am

That sounds about right, if my memory is correct.

Keep in mind that if you are using the stock oil filter, there's a relief valve in there too. The previous owner of my race car was using an adapter on the stock oil filter housing to plumb the two oil filters and oil cooler. As it turned out there was so much head loss on though the system that the filter bypass was open all the time, and oil wasn't getting cooled or filtered much at all. Thank goodness for synthetic oil. I think I was running oil temps of 250-275 degrees.

And that was the genesis of my custom oil filter adapter.

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Chris C.

DatsunBucky
Posts: 67
Joined: Mon Apr 28, 2003 9:05 pm
Location: Taylorsville, UT

Postby DatsunBucky » Tue Jul 08, 2008 9:37 am

Chris-

Thanks for the input, I was hoping I was in the ballpark. I made my own adapter to take the oil off the engine block at about the same time you were making yours, but mine is not so well designed. I used a chunk of 1" aluminum that I had laying around and just offset the holes, tapering them together to smooth out the oil flow. I like your design better than mine, but what I got ... I got. My "machine shop" consists of a Sears drill press and various hand tools. I do have lots of time, however.

I won't be using the stock filter, but haven't settled on a brand or size yet. While I'm not "racing" per se, I am planning on the oil cooler, but might have to forego that for the time being. For now, I'm going to use a relatively stock engine for AX and track days while I build the "good" motor. :twisted:
Bucky
67.5 1600 project

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Postby Chris Coker » Tue Jul 08, 2008 11:29 am

I think you'll do just fine without the oil cooler. I think it's only really necessary for full blown race engines. Using a synthetic oil would be good insurance though.
Chris C.


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