Brake Pads

Discussion about Datsun 1500, 1600, and 2000 race cars.

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Ponder
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Location: Southern Indiana

Post by Ponder »

Brian.

Just Curious. Did you go with the KFP Silver compound? Anything interesting about the install/performance? I'm thinking about new pads for autox, and I've got a little while before our season starts.

Looking forward to seeing the results from the Ft Myers tour event.

Steve
I drank what? - Socrates
Oilleak
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Post by Oilleak »

KFP Blue's - I'll install them this week - nothing special there except to make sure the rotors are cleaned of all of the old pad material. They recomended cleaning them in MEK. Bed them in by stopping multiple times to get them good and hot, then let them cool back to ambient temp. I'll run them next sunday and let you know what I think.
Brian Hollands
69 2000
Tampa, FL
Chris Coker
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Post by Chris Coker »

About installation of the KFP pads....

I've always had to sand the paint off of the sides of the pads, in order to get them to fit smoothly in the calipers. I've also had to clean out the slot that slides over the pin on the caliper, in order to make the pads fit. Not that big of a deal, but if you're not prepared for it, and need to make a quick pad change...

I know Bill W. doesn't have the pins on his caliper pistons. I think that was a Col. Joe modification. That just means the pistons won't positively retract the pads back when the brakes are released. To me, this is non-issue, as no modern racing (or street) caliper has that type of connection between pad and caliper.

Good luck with the autocross stuff. Sounds like you guys are ready to have lot's of fun this year!
Chris C.
Gary Boone
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Location: Cheyenne, Wyoming

Post by Gary Boone »

I recently ordered the Carbotech Bobcat pads and Silver Streak shoes. The nice feature they did for the shoes was to grind the friction material to the same inside radius of my drums to maximize contact area. But for the pads, the thick backing plate they use would not slide over the button on my caliper pistons. I took measurements and sent them back to grind off some of the backing plate. They said I was their first problem like this but I measured another set of pistons and they are the same. I know their pads backing plates were designed for Jaguar calipers and I suspect the Jag pistons may be different. At least they know now that Datsun roadster pistons have shorter button necks.
Ponder
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Joined: Fri Mar 21, 2003 11:47 am
Location: Southern Indiana

Post by Ponder »

Brian,

Forgive the rudeness of casting stones (but, I'm a newbie on perfomance brakes so I'll plunge on), but why the Blues? They seem like they're a race-only application. You're still driving the Roadster on the street, right? Maybe it's a difference between what a manufacturer's lawyers will let them put in print and what people can really do with a product. That would make sense.

Another newbie question: what's MEK? :idea: :roll: Yeesh. quick google and Methyl Ethyl Ketone. Is that easily obtainable?

On the bedding: I found a link on a sight I was lurking in (I think SCCAforums.com, and I'm wondering if you were in on this particular discussion). Interesting reading and I thought I'd pass it along for comment. The key there was, when bedding in new pads, it says not to come to a complete stop. I saw one of the horsepower shows over the weekend and they were close to this technique, but they definitely were coming to a complete stop. Anyway here it is,

http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/warped_rotors_myth.htm
I drank what? - Socrates
Oilleak
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Post by Oilleak »

Silver are the roadrace pads, blue the autocross compound - at least that's what they told me - sure hope so.
Yes - MEK is Methyl Ethyl Ketone - it's a general solvent and is available at most hardware stores.
My understanding of the bedding in process is that you want to transfer a bit of the new pad material onto the rotors - takes heat to do that. KFP doesn't say anything about not coming to a complete stop but I'd think that either way is fine as long as you don't keep the pedal firmly pushed down for more than a second or two at rest - i.e. keep the rotor moving so that it heats/cools evenly and thus doesn't warp.
That's my story and I'm stickin' to it.
Brian Hollands
69 2000
Tampa, FL
Chris Coker
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Post by Chris Coker »

Gold and blue are roadrace compounds. Blue being the softer (more friction, less heat tolerant of the two). I haven't used the red compound, which is softer than the blue. Red is used for roadracing applications, but typically only on small formula cars.

Silver is the recommended compound for autocross applications.

Here's an info links from the guy that's been supplying my KFP pads (and shoes) for the past three years.

http://www.racing-stuff.com/brakes.htm
Chris C.
Oilleak
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Post by Oilleak »

I'll call KFP tomorrow - they indicated that the blue would be the best bet. could be because I did specify that the car isn't a daily driver.
Brian Hollands
69 2000
Tampa, FL
Oilleak
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Post by Oilleak »

Talked to KFP this morning - the story is what I remembered - sort of. The silver compound is there high performance street compound. It's suitable for autocross use on a car that is driven daily. The blue compound is a soft racing compound that is suitable for autocross on a car that is not driven daily. Basicly, the Blue has a higher coeficient of friction and will take more heat but won't work as well for around town driving as the silver. The blue does have good initial bite so it'll work well from cold but I expect it's wear charicterisitcs and noise levels aren't good for daily use.
Brian Hollands
69 2000
Tampa, FL
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